Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
